Chef Melissa Perello gained acclaim – and a Michelin star – for her work at her two San Francisco restaurants, Frances and Octavia. She had an opportunity to open a restaurant in Los Angeles but was initially “ambivalent” and uncertain about splitting time between the two cities.
“The more time I spent in Los Angeles, I realized how dynamic it’s become and … how much the food scene here has blown up,” she said.
Her highly praised restaurant M. Georgina, named for her father’s mother, opened last fall at the Row DTLA in the downtown Arts District area.
The L.A. restaurant has a giant wood-fired oven, something Perello has always wanted.
“This is my dream restaurant,” she said. “This is what I’ve been working towards for my whole life. … I’m super excited to be able to cook with wood here.”
Follow the restaurant on Instagram here.
Roasted black cod, creamed greens and cipollini onions
The cod is finished in M. Georgina’s wood-fired oven, but you can use your home oven at high heat.
- 2 cups onions
- 3/4 cup garlic
- 1/4 cup anchovy
- 1 teaspoon ground black pepper
- 1 cup white wine
- Salt to taste
- 8 large cippolini onions, blanched, peeled and cut in half
- 1 cup cream
- 1 head escarole, washed and torn into small pieces
- olive oil
- 4 each: 4-to-5-ounce portions of black cod
- In a large pan, warm 2 tablespoons olive oil and add the onions and garlic.
- Slowly cook, stirring until deeply caramelized and dark golden brown.
- Add the anchovy, pepper and white wine and cook until the liquid has reduced down. Reserve in a clean bowl.
- In a separate large pan, heat 1 tablespoon olive oil and lightly sauté the escarole until wilted. Season with salt, cool until just warm to touch.
- In a mixing bowl, combine the cooked escarole, along with any remaining liquids, and the cooked onions.
- Mix thoroughly and add this mixture to the base of your baking dish.
- Preheat oven to approximately 500 degrees.
- In a sauté pan with 1 tablespoon olive oil, saute the cippolini onions cut side down until browned on the cut side.
- Add these onions to the baking dish with the greens, along with the cup of cream.
- Season the fish portions with salt and pepper. Lay the fish skin side up over the greens and place the baking dish in the preheated oven.
- Bake for 7 to 10 minutes until the fish is browned on top and cooked through.
- You can serve in the baking dish or plate individually.
Spaghetti with kale, olive oil and garlic
- 1 cup garlic cloves, peeled
- olive oil for cooking
- extra virgin olive oil for finishing the pasta
- 1 bunch lacinato kale, washed, stems removed
- 1 box large spaghetti or fettuccini
- 1/4 cup finely grated parmesan cheese
- 1/2 lemon, juiced
- Chile flake to garnish
- Combine the garlic cloves in a small pot with enough olive oil to submerge the garlic. Cook slowly over low heat until the garlic is soft and tender. The garlic should not brown during this process, so be sure to do this over very low heat. You can also do this in the oven at 300 degree.
- Once cooked, strain the garlic form this oil and save the oil for future projects.
- In a large pot of salted water, blanch the kale briefly and remove to a large tray to cool, draining any residual water. When the kale is cool to touch, chop it into chunks.
- Heat a fresh pot of water to a boil and salt heavily to cook your pasta.
- Cook the pasta per the instructions on the box, but subtract a minute or two from the total cooking time.
- Rather than dumping the cooking water, remove the pasta pot (with tongs or a strainer/skimmer) and reserve the cooking water.
- Meanwhile, when the pasta is still cooking, set up a pan with the kale, the cooked garlic and 2 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil.
- Place the cooked pasta in this pot along with a cup of the reserved pasta cooking water.
- Over high heat, stir the pasta into the kale/garlic mixture, stirring constantly until the liquid begins to emulsify and you see that the olive oil has cooked into the pasta.
- Add the lemon juice and the cheese, continuing to stir constantly. You should be stirring for a couple minutes total. Season to taste and plate.